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ITINERARY 7 - Piazza Colonna, Galleria Colonna, Piazza Esedra, Diocletian Baths, Quirinale, Triton Fountain, Piazza Barberini, Via Veneto, Porta Pia, Villas of Via Nomentana.

Again taking PiazzaVenezia as our departure point, we can visit the nearby Palazzo Colonna (reachable by way of the Via Cesare Battisti, Via IV Novembre, and then turning left into the Via della Pilotta). Residence of the Colonna family, it was built by Martin V in the 15th century, but dates, in its present form, to the 18th century. The linearity and simplicity of the building external structure is at variance with the pomp and sumptuousness that characterise its interior. The Colonna Gallery housed inside the palace is displayed in three large rooms, and comprises an interesting collection of paintings: Narcissus, by Tintoretto; Portrait of C.Colonna, by Van Dyck; Apollo and Daphne, by Poussin; Guidobaldo da Montefeltro, by Melozzo da Forlì, and others. Further along the Via IV Novembre we come to the Trajan Markets, adjacent to which rises the 13th century Torredelle Milizie, one of the medieval defensive towers of the city, with the 17th century church of Santa Caterina next to it. We continue along Via Nazionale, one of the main thoroughfares of Rome, always crowded with people. To the left is the exhibition centre, the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, built in the 19th century after a design by the architect Pio Piacentini. Next to it is the church of San Vitale built in the 5th century, but remodelled in subsequent periods; the portal of the facade, in the 15th century style, bears the coat of arms of Pope Sixtus IV. Further ahead, to the right of via Nazionale, is the American Anglican church of St.Paul, with a valuable cycle of Preraphaelite mosaics inside. Via Firenze, just after the church, opens into the piazza containing Rome Opera House. And so we come to the Piazza Esedra: a large piazza dominated at its centre by the famous Fountain of the Naiads, representing the Nymph of the underground waters, borne on a dragon, the Nymph of the oceans, the Nymph of the rivers, and the Nymph of the lakes with a swan. The central figure is Glaucus, who dominates the forces of nature. Here is also the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century, it made use of ruins belonging to the nearby Diocletian Baths (being largely converted from one of the great halls of the baths). In the 18th century, however, Vanvitelli was called to build the Chapel of San Nicola Albergati, thus modifying the interior original appearance as designed by Michelangelo. The church is full of works of art, including the Punishment of Ananias by Pomarancio, the crucifixion of St.Peter by Ricciolini, the Martyrdom of St.Sebastian by Domenichino, and the Mass of St.Basil by Subleyras. A number of interesting funerary monuments are also contained in the church, such as those of Cardinals Alciati and Parisi, and those of the artists Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. The Baths of Diocletian house the Museo Nazionale Romano. Founded in 1889, the museum contains numerous works of Greek and Roman sculpture, sarcophagi, terracottas and paintings. In the Room of the Masterpieces are displayed the Discobulus of Castelporziano, a copy of Myron original in bronze, and the Noibe of the Orti Sallustiani. The important Ludovisi collection comprises among its102 sculptures such statues as the Dying Gaul and hid Dead Wife, Aphrodite and the Ludovisi Mars. We now make our way back down via Nazionale, until we come to the Piazza Magnapoli. Here we turn right into the Via XXIV Maggio, on which the Villa Colonna and the church of San Silvestro al Quirinale are situated. The latter, erected in the 11th century, was completely transformed in the 16th. Close by is the Palazzo Rospigliosi Pallavicini, built in 1603: it contains a famous gallery containing paintings by Caravaggio, Rubens, Botticelli, Raphael and other illustrious artists. Its garden pavilion, the Casino dell'Aurora, is decorated with a beautiful ceiling fresco by Guido Reni. We have now arrived in the Piazza del Quirinale dominated by its magnificent Fountain of the Dioscuri. The Quirinal Palace faces on to the piazza. Completed by such distinguished architects as Bernini, Fontana and Maderno in the 17th century, it takes its name from the hill on which it stands: the Quirinal. A monumental portal leads into an arcaded court yard, at the foot of which is the clock-tower and a mosaic of the Virgin Mary based on a design by Maratta. The sumptuously decorated state-rooms of the palace are adorned with frescoes by Maratta, Guido Reni, and hung with 16th and 17th century tapestries. The palace is now the official residence of the Italian President of Republic. Also facing onto the piazza is the Palazzo della Consulta, built by the architect Ferdinando Fuga in the 18th century, and now the seat of Italy Constitutional Court. Further ahead, on the Via Quirinale is the church of Sant'Andrea al Quirinale, a masterpiece of Bernini who built it in 1671. Its interior, elliptical, is decorated with beautiful frescoed chapels and polychrome marbles; worth mentioning among the works of art is Borgognone Crucifixion of St.Andrew over the high altar. At the foot of the same street is the church of San Carlino, a masterpiece of Borromini. We now turn left into the Via delle Quattro Fontane, so called on account of the four fountains placed at the corners of the intersection. This brings us into the Piazza Barberini with Bernini graceful Fountain of the Triton in the middle. Adjacent to the piazza is the Palazzo Barberini, considered among the most sumptuous palaces of the Roman nobility. Erected by Maderno in the 17th century, it was completed by Borromini and Bernini. On opposite sides of the entrance are, to the right, a magnificent spiral staircase by Borromini and, to the left, the grand staircase by Bernini, leading up to the main rooms on the first floor. Here we find the large hall with its famous ceiling frescoes of the Triumph of the Barberini by Pietro da Cortona. In the past the palace housed the Barberini Gallery and the Library of over 60000 books, subsequently acquired by the Vatican Library. It now houses the Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica: an important picture gallery which includes paintings by Raphael (La Fornarina), Fra Angelico (Triptych), Tintoretto and Perugino. At a corner of the Piazza Barberini we find Bernini charming little Fountain of the Bees, which marks the beginning of the elegant Via Vittorio Veneto, a fashionable street flanked by luxury hotels, shops and cosmopolitan cafes where it is possible to meet famous people from the world of culture and entertainment. It's agreeable to stroll along the Via Veneto just to savour the fascination of this city and the atmosphere that pervades it. On Via Veneto we also find the church of Santa Maria Concezione or church of the Capuchins, built in the 17th century and containing Guido Reni altar, piece of The Archangel St.Michael and Caravaggio beautiful St.Francis. Close by, is the church of Sant'Isidoro, while at the point where the Via Veneto bends to the left is the Palazzo Margherita, once the residence of Queen Margherita of Savoy and now the american embassy. Another fascinating tour through the streets of the city is the one to Castro Pretorio, Porta Pia, along Via Salaria and Nomentana, to the Villa Torlonia, bearing in mind the many churches, palaces and piazzas we will encounter along our route. Our departure point is now Piazza Barberini: from here we take Via Barberini to Piazza San Bernardo with the two churches of San Bernardo and Santa Susanna (17th century). Continuing along Via XX settembre,we can branch off to the right (by Via Goito) to the Castro Pretorio (barracks of the Pretorian Guards), or continue straight to Porta Pia at the end of the street. This impressive gateway, famous for the episode of the taking of Rome in 1870, was designed by Michelangelo and built by Della Porta. We pass through the gate and continue straight on along Via Nomentana, a wide thoroughfare flanked by rich and famous historic villas: Paganini, Mirafiori, Torlonia, Agnese and, on Via Salaria, Albani, Chigi and Ada. The first we come to (on the right) is Villa Torlonia, with its twin obelisks. Built by Valadier in the neo-classic style, and completed by Caretti it was the property of the influent banker Torlonia who wanted to create a splendid residence amid a landscape of lawns and tall palmtrees. Further along Via Nomentana (to the left) is the Basilica of Santa Agnese fuori le Mura, built in 342 over the catacombs in which the mortal remains of the Saint were preserved. Adjacent to it is the church of Santa Costanza, an unusual circular Early Christian building, built by Constantine as a mausoleum for his daughters and later converted into a church. It is decorated with beautiful 4th century mosaics. We return to Porta Pia and, by way of Corso Italia (called Muro Torto by locals), reach Piazza Fiume, whence begins Via Salaria. Situated on this major road are the Villa Chigi, built for Cardinal Chigi; the extensive Villa Ada, formerly the propertyof the House of Savoy, now a public park; and the Villa Albani. The latter initially housed a valuable collection of ancient art, later acquired by Alessandro Torlonia together with the villa. The two finest buildings of the complex are the Casino and the Caffehaus, set amid the beautiful park of pines, cedars and sequoias. The gallery in the Casino contains some interesting paintings by Perugino, Tintoretto, Guercino and others. Also on Via Salaria are the Catacombs of Priscilla, considered the most important in the city. Beyond the Aniene River stretches the modern and horrible Montesacro quarter.

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