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ITINERARY 5 - Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Basilica of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, Church of Santa Prassede, Church of San Clemente. CHURCH OF SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI: From the Piazza Venezia we turn into the Via dei Fori Imperiali, and then turn left to Via Cavour, so reaching the Piazza San Pietro in Vincoli. It takes its name from the church, founded by the wife of the emperor Valentinian III, Eudoxia, who wanted it to be a place of veneration of the holy relic after which it is named: the chains that fettered St.Peter in prison. In fact, the church origins are very ancient, even dating back earlier than the 4th century, but its ancient appearance has been substantially altered, notably in its interior, by successive alterations, including the 18th century restoration of Francesco Fontana. The nave, divided from the aisles by ancient fluted columns, still retains something of its original appearance; it is topped by a wooden coffered ceiling which creates a fine scenographic effect; worth noting is Parodi's fresco of The Miracle of the Chains with which it is decorated. Apart from various works of art by distinguished artists like Guercino, Domenichino and Andrea Bregno, the church contains the Mausoleum of Julius II by Michelangelo. According to the artist design, begun on the commission of Pope Julius II in 1513, was intended to be enormously grander and more imposing in the number and size of its sculptures than what we see today. But, at the request of Pope Leo X, Michelangelo was later obliged to curtail his work on the project. What remains is the wonderful statue of Moses at its centre. This is a masterpiece of sculpture. The virile figure of the biblical patriarch, seated on a throne, and admonishing the idolatrous Jews with a penetrating and indignant eye, makes a powerful impression. From San Pietro in Vincoli we ascend the Esquiline Hill, where we find the church of San Martino ai Monti, in the piazza of the same name. Its origins can be traced back to the 14th century, but it was remodelled in the 17th. BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE: By way of the Via Quattro Cantoni and then Via Paolina, we reach the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the major Early Christian basilicas of Rome. According to tradition, it was built by Pope Liberius on the place where, after the apparition of the Virgin, snow had fallen in the middle of summer. The 18th century facade by Ferdinando Fuga consists of an elegant triple-arcaded loggia, behind which are some late 13th century mosaics representing the above-cited miracle. The interior, with a nave and two aisles divided by splendid monolithic Ionic columns, is striking for its beauty and solemnity, thanks also to the sumptuous gilt coffered ceiling over the nave, perhaps the work of Giuliano Sangallo. Noteworthy too is the cosmatesque floor (12th century). Above the intablature are some precious 5th century mosaics representing scenes from the Old Testament. In the apse is Iacopo Torriti splendid mosaic of the Triumph of Mary. The basilica contains a fine 18th century baldacchino over the high alter by Fuga and a number of important chapels: the Sistine Chapel, built for Sixtus V by Domenico Fontana in the later 16th century and frescoed by a group of Mannerist painters; it contains a gilt ciborium in the shape of a small circular temple by Ludovico Scalzo; the Pauline (or Borghese) chapel, built for Paul V by Flaminio Ponzio in the 17th century; it contains frescoes by Guido Reni; the Sforza Chapel, built by Giacomo della Porta after a design by Michelangelo. CHURCH OF SANTA PRASSEDE: Santa Maria Maggiore is flanked by a fine romanesque bell-tower: the highest in Rome (75m.). From here, we continue along Via Merulana, making a short detour a short distance ahead to the right to visit the church of Santa Prassede. Erected in the 5th century, it was completely rebuilt in the 9th and, in the course of the ensuing centuries, has undergone various alterations and enlargements. It contains some splendid mosaics of the 9th century. The Chapel of San Zeno, an important monument of the byzantine period in Rome, also dates to this period. The bones of St.Praxed and her sister St.Prudentiana, early converts to Christianity, and many other Christian relics, are preserved in this church. Before continuing our itinerary, let us make another detour, making our way round to the back of Piazza dell'Esquilino to visit the Church of Santa Prudenziana of very ancient origins, but recently transformed; some remains of the original building are still preserved in the interior. We now take the Via Carlo Alberto, noting (to the left) the Church of San Antonio and the Arch of Gallienus. The street leads into the large arcaded Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, from where, by way of the Via Mamiani, we reach the long thoroughfare, the Via Giolitti, one end of which ends at the railway station (stazione termini) and the Piazza dei Cinquecento facing it, and the other at the Piazza di Porta Maggiore. We cross over the station (by the Via S.Bibiana) to visit the Basilica of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura. BASILICA OF SAN LORENZO FUORI LE MURA: The church owes its origins to Constantine who wanted to build a sacred shrine over the site where St.Laurence had been martyred. Later Pope Sixtus III decided to erect another one close to the first. Later still, in the 8th century, the two buildings were joined together into a single basilica. Worth noting in the interior are the medieval episcopal throne, canopy and two pulpits. A few steps from the Basilica is the Cemetery of Verano, the city major burial place where many celebrated personalities are buried. From the Piazza San Lorenzo where the second highest column in Rome stands (after that of the Immacolata in the Piazza di Spagna), we can take the Via Cesare de Lollis to visit the University City: this extensive campus contains some interesting museums, including the Museum of Origins, with exhibits relating to various geological eras, and the Museum of Mineralogy. .
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